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Whenever compiling a ranking of London’s top eateries, one might expect well-known Michelin-starred establishments. However, situated high among these food titans is a unpretentious salonu located in a outlying corner of north London.

A Surprise Accolade

This compact Turkish spot, focusing in the street food of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been crowned the fourth finest restaurant in the capital by a respected culinary publication. The recognition has left the owners completely surprised.

“I’m completely surprised,” says the family member, referring to his parents’ hard graft that resulted in their small place achieving such a lofty ranking on a respected 99-strong list.

A Charm of Simplicity

This little venue, which started as a simple cafe before its conversion into a sought-after spot, has kept much of its earlier charm. It seats just more than 20 people and, beyond the vibrant live cooking performance, the layout remains largely unchanged. “It’s a tiny and intimate spot,” comments the owner.

The Signature Offering: Tantuni

Ultimately, it is all down to the cuisine, and this establishment definitely delivers. The restaurant’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated joy. Choice of meat—whether lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to keep a tender consistency.

The meat is then thrown into a massive pan with flavours and oil, which are mixed in bit by bit. Once the flavourful mixture starts to simmer, homemade lavaş—a pliable bread—is slapped on top to absorb all the flavours. Finely sliced onions and a dash of parsley are added before the savoury meat is wrapped neatly inside.

It is often consumed with a squeeze of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The final product is a powerful slap of taste, with soft hints of sumac, bold onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil bringing it all in harmony.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is cut up and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. The prominent food critic labelled this dish “among London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

When it comes to sweets, the eatery’s künefe proves a treat. It is coated in lighter syrup than is typical, imparting it a deeper, more aromatic and not overly sweet taste.

Rising Above the Stars

Interestingly, this unassuming restaurant has outplaced several illustrious three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself near the summit of the list, following other notable dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave the restaurant stuffed for less than £25, similar experiences at top-tier establishments can start at significantly more than that amount.

The Philosophy of Hospitality

It is also among several Turkish restaurants featured and is situated well beyond the city’s prime zones. “It’s not about luxury. London is an costly city. It is belief that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the best service and best food but I don’t believe in that,” states the owner.

“In my view what is most important is hospitality, a welcoming atmosphere and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

This philosophy is supported by the list’s compiler, who remarked that if he was in a position of authority, he would “require to make every chef in London visit this spot as a final lesson, to show them the dangers of excess, and to demonstrate what is possible if you do just one – or three – things to their very best”.

The Path of Hard Work

In contrast to most chefs running kitchens in the list’s top ten, the mastermind behind the food didn’t apprentice at Michelin-starred restaurants. “I am truly happy of our shop and our mum,” concludes her son.

A lot of restaurants take years to establish themselves, but this eatery first started seven years ago. Its popularity is thanks to tireless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“Our mum would be extremely tired. She would source produce in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Each item is made by hand; she would handle all of this. She is a single mother and she managed a social life but her friends would visit to encourage her. She was raising children and a house to manage as well. Each of these duties forged her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he shares.

An Achievement for the Community

The restaurant’s recognition is likely to resonate outside its own walls. “I believe a lot of people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” notes the owner, highlighting the greater meaning of this gastronomic achievement.